However, if you want to design a better speaker then get WinISD Pro as a free download, go to vendor sites that have speaker drivers then learn about those T/S parameters they include and model out some projects. It's just a small speaker, have fun with it and play around and learn things. You need to know what that filter is when designing the enclosure. If it is, you have tuned it lower but it won't use those frequencies so you have not improved anything. Just as with ported, if you gain anything depends on if the amp is filtered to roll off those lower frequencies. If you take a passive radiator speaker, or a speaker with ports.or even a sealed speaker and make the enclosure larger in volume it will change the tuning lower. If you don't have them, the programming is useless. The bad news is you need all the parameters it looks for to actually give you accurate results. The good news is there is free software that helps you design passive raditor and speaker systems, WinISD Pro My initial thought was to just build a box and hope for the best, it has worked well in the past. It will most likely be in the form factor of a small portable PA speaker, and be made in plywood painted with a textured, sturdy and water resistant Warnex paint. The cabinet will have a much larger volume than the original, meaning I will hopefully reduce the frequency response to let the driver go even deeper. Now for my question for you guys, should I go with the original passive radiators, or ported? Is there any software that can calculate volume and support oval shaped passive radiators into the equation? I'm not sure what size and length of port I want for the driver, it's hard to find the specs of it. Then I will solve two issues battery life and volume when bringing it out and about. This lets me increase the battery life by powering it with a replacable, external Ryobi 18V battery, straight into the DC input. Seems to be of high quality, check out this disassembly video of the newer 7 version, it is pretty similar except for the extra tweeter. All of the internals are screwed in place, and easily disassembled and reused. One evening I got the idea of taking the internals (woofer, tweeter, passive radiators, amplifier + control board) and make a larger cabinet myself. It's still pretty good, but I would like to have more battery capacity and louder volume on battery. ![]() The speaker also goes into "power saving" when on battery, meaning less bass, lower volume and more compression. However, the internal battery is weak being only a single 3200mAh 18650. ![]() Most of this accomplisment is by the DSP in the amplifier, and the clever use of passive radiators. It gets real deep in the bass register for its size, and costing around $100 on sale (which it is 90% of the time it's sold) it's hard to beat by any other speaker. I've got an Onyx Studio 6 speaker, and it is probably the best sounding bluetooth speaker I've heard. Hi! First time posting here, long time entry level audio enthusiast and DIY hobbyist.
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